Baby Cocoon with Buttons

 



For this cocoon I used a size H hook and medium weight (4) yarn.


Ch 3
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook (12)

Increase
Row 2. Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each dc around (24)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 5 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 5 dc*, repeat from * around, join (28)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 6 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 6 dc*, repeat from * around, join (32)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 7 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 7 dc*, repeat from * around, join (36)
Row 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 8 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 8 dc*, repeat from * around, join (40)
Row 7: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 9 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 9 dc*, repeat from * around, join (44)
Row 8: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 10 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 10 dc*, repeat from * around, join (48)
Row 9: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 11 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc*, repeat from * around, join (52)
Row 10: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 12 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 12 dc*, repeat from * around, join (56)
Row 11: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 13 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 13 dc*, repeat from * around, join (60)
Row 12: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 14 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 14 dc*, repeat from * around, join (64)
Row 13: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 15 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 15 dc*, repeat from * around, join (68)
Row 14: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 16 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 16 dc*, repeat from * around, join (72)

Even Rounds
Rows 15-30: Ch 2, dc in next dc and in each dc around, join.
-At this point cocoon should measure at about 14 inches from beginning.

Flap
*Continue to slip stitch in next 34 spaces. (35 slip stitches) Front post sc around next 12 dc, ch 2, turn
Row 1: dc in next 12 fp sc, through next 35 dc and sl st (both at same time) and remaining dcs, ch 2, turn (84 dc)
Rows 2-12: dc in next dc and in each dc around, ch 2, turn (84)
Row 13: dc in next dc and in each dc around, ch 1, turn
Row 14: sc in each dc around (84)
Finish Off

Finishing
-Sew on buttons, you can use yarn or thread depending on the size wholes in your buttons.
-Make a chain of 25 (or whatever length you need to make a loop for your button) and attach to the left of the flap.
Note: You can use different sized buttons and add more or less. You can also chose to make a loop for every button or just one. I made one and placed it in between my two buttons so it can be used for either one in case the top needs to be folded for a smaller baby.
Weave in Ends

Enjoy!
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Double Thick Pot Holders

Have you ever wondered how to stitch double the thickness without having to make two of something and sew them together? I'll show you how to do that here. This technique can be handy in many situations, but I think it's especially helpful with hot pads. I'll include some pictures along the way.

This pattern uses ch, sc, sl st and requires loop recognition.
Use sugar 'n Cream cotton yarn and size H hook.

Thick Rectangle Hot Pads-Make Two
With slip knot on hook, ch 26.
Row 1: Working in back loops only, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
Rows 2-54(or stop when desired length is reached): sc together back loop of stitch and front loop of previous round together, across, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
-This may be tricky to understand, when using only back loops of first row you left front loops behind so use the back loop of your current row and reach down to grab the front loop you left from the previous row. Then you make your sc in those loops. (See pictures below.) This makes it double thick. It may look a little funny until you get a few rows in.
Row 55(finishing round): sc through both loops of st and front loop of row before, across. (This leaves a nice finished end.
Finish off and weave in ends.

My silver needle in this picture is going first through the back loop of my current row and then through the front loop left behind from my chain. You make your single crochet in these stitches.

This is a few rows in. I went first through the back loop of my current row then dropped down and went through the front loop of my previous row. You make your single crochet in these stitches.

Note: If you want to make finger pockets, just make the pot holder longer then fold over ends and sew the sides.
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Simple Coasters

For these patterns I used Sugar 'n Cream cotton and light weighted yarn with a size G hook.

 

 

Round Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 3.
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook, join with sl st to top of ch. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next sp* repeat from * around, join. ( 36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next two sp* repeat from * around, join. (48 dc)
Border: *ch3, sl st in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, sl st in first sl st.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Lemon Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 3.
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook, join with sl st to top of ch. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch2, dc in same sp, ch 1, *skip next sp, 2 dc in next sp, ch 1* repeat from * around, join in top of ch 2. (24 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, dc in next sp, dc in ch 1 sp *2 dc in next sp, dc in next sp, dc in ch 1 sp* repeat from * around, join.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Square Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 19.
Row 1: dc in third ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 2, turn. (18 dc)
Row 2: dc in next sp, *ch 2, dc in next two sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (10 dc and 4 ch 2 spaces)
Row 3: dc in next sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (18 dc)
Rows 4-7: dc in next sp and in each sp across, ch 2, turn (18 dc)
Row 8: dc I next sp, *ch 2, dc in next two sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (10 dc and 4 ch 2 spaces)
Row 9: dc in next sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp* repeat from * across. (18 dc)
Finish off and weave in ends.

Enjoy!
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Fast and Easy Basket with Lid

This beginner friendly pattern can be easily altered to make a smaller or bigger basket, with or without a lid.

If you are a beginner - visit the stitch-onary page to refresh on abbreviations. This is an easy pattern to follow using slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), and increases (just follow the instructions.) Ignore the alterations your first time making this.

Tools: Bulky/Chunky yarn and I-sized hook -You can use different yarn, just adjust the size of your hook and you might need to make more rows to get the size you want, I picked bulky because it's sturdy and stands up well.

-Work through both loops unless otherwise stated for a round.

Bottom
Row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc throughout pattern) 11 dc in third ch from hook, sl st to join in top of beginning chain. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next* repeat from *around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two spaces, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, join with sl st in back loop of beg ch. (48 dc)

Note: To make a smaller basket stop increasing at row 3, to make a larger basket, continue increase pattern by adding an additional dc in between doubles for each new round until you reach the desired size.

Side
Row 1: work in back loops for this round only-ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (48 dc)
Rows 2-6: (working in both loops from now on) ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (48 dc)
Row 7: ch 1, sc in same sp and in each sp around, join with sl st in top of first sc. (48 sc) finish off

Lid-starts same as bottom
Row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc throughout pattern) 11 dc in third ch from hook, sl st to join in top of beginning chain. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next* repeat from *around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two spaces, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, join with sl st in back loop of beg ch. (48 dc)
Row 5: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp, *sc in next sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp* repeat from * around, join with sl st in top of first sc (60 sc)
Row 6: work in back loops for this round only- ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beginning ch. (60 dc)
Row 7: sl st in each sp around, join with sl st to first sl st. (60 sl sts) finish off

Note: If you made your basket a different size, start your lid by making it the same size as your bottom piece, then add one additional increase round of sc, continue directions starting at round 6.
-Weave in ends and trim. After working you may have to flatten the bottom of basket and top of lid on a surface to shape before using.

Alteration: For an even sturdier basket, make two bottoms, sl st together then continue pattern. Two top circles can be made for the lid also, then continue on row 6. This will help the basket and lid keep their shape better. If your lid isn't quite big enough, use a hdc instead of sc on row 5.

Happy Stitching!
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Lesson 3: Single Crochet and Identifying Loops

Abbreviations: sc (single crochet) front lp (front loop) back lp (back loop)
 
All abbreviations are also listed on the Stitch-onary page. These are important to take note of, if you learn them as we go it will make reading patterns much easier.
 

Front and Back Loops
We're going to start with identifying front and back loops. This is an important thing to know from here on out. When you make a stitch, on top of that stitch there is a front loop and a back loop. That's where you will work stitches in on your next round. In the pictures below, my silver needle is pointing to the loop mentioned.

Front Loops. These are the loops closest to you.

Back Loops. These are the loops furthest away from you.

Both loops. My needle here is going through both the front and back loops. Unless otherwise indicated in a pattern, you will do all of your work through both loops. This will make your piece nice and flat. If you see ridges as you go along, you aren't working through both loops. Different styles or stitches will require working through one loop or the other at times. For now, work through both.











Single Crochet
The first stitch you will learn is a single crochet. I've included pictures for each step, if you need additional help don't hesitate to ask. Remember these will always be worked through both loops unless otherwise indicated. Practice for as long as you need to feel comfortable before moving on to the next lesson.

With a slip knot on your hook, ch 11 (chain 11)

Start your single crochet in second chain from hook. The loop on your hook does not count.

This is the first chain.

This is the second.

 Insert in second chain from hook.

 Yarn Over

Pull through chain.
There should be two loops on your hook. 

 Yarn Over
Pull through both loops on hook.

You have made one single crochet and should have one loop on your hook.

Single crochet in next 9 chains, ch 1

You should have a total of 10 sc and a ch 1.

Turn

You are literally turning your work from front to back.

Single crochet in first stitch and in each stitch across, ch 1 turn (10 sc made)

Continue practicing your single crochets by following the last step repeatedly until you feel confident in your work.

You should always come up with 10 single crochets in each row and your work should be flat as you're working in both loops.

If it starts to curl up you're probably crocheting a little too tight. Relax, adjust your gauge on the yarn and keep going.

Lesson 2: Chain

Abbreviation: ch (chain) or chs (chains)

The chain is the beginning to almost every project and is used throughout all patterns. By making a beginning chain you are essentially making loops to work your rows on, much like casting on in knitting. This is also a good stitch to practice your gauge with.

Other abbreviations you will need to know: yo (yarn over) this means you wrap your working yarn around your hook, always from left to right bringing the yarn over the front of your hook or rather mover your hook to catch the yarn.

 Let’s get started!

With slip knot on your hook:
yo, draw through loop on hook, one chain is made.


Yarn Over

Draw through loop on hook

One chain is made

 
 

Repeat continuously for practice or for as many chains as needed in a project.

Tip: When you yarn over, turn your needle to catch the upper hook on the yarn you are pulling through-that’s what it’s there for.
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Lesson 1: Slip Knot and Magic Ring

Lesson 1
Welcome to your first lesson in crocheting!
Before proceeding, make sure you have read How to Hold Your Hook and Yarn.
Note: The Tail is the end of your yarn and the working yarn is the side that comes out of your skein.

First, you need to learn how to start.

There are two common ways to start a project, a slip knot and a magic ring. I’ll give instructions for both as the start varies depending on your pattern. There are a few other ways to start but you will most likely be given special instructions in your pattern for those. So let's get started!

 

Slip Knot and Magic Ring-Follow First 3 Steps for Both

1. With your yarn, start up about 4-5 inches. This will leave you a nice long tail to finish your project with.

2. Holding your tail in your left hand, wrap the working yarn towards and then away from you, forming a circle. (Working yarn should be on top.)



3. Let the working yarn fall behind the circle and use your hook to pull it up through the center of your circle.

Slip Knot

4. Holding both the tail and working yarn with your left hand, pull up with your hook until the slip knot is tight.

5. Adjust your loop around your hook by pulling the working yarn. You want it loose enough to stitch through, but not too loose. If it's too tight you can loosen it again by pulling on the tail.

 

Magic Ring

4. This is what it looks like to pull the loop up. Do not pull tight like a slip knot!

5. Pulling the working yarn to your left, chain 1. (This does not count as a stitch.)

 

6. Continue working as your pattern directs into the ring.

7. At the end of your first round pull your tail and the ring will close.
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How to Finish Off and Weave in Tails

Finishing Off
You know how to start so now you need to know how to finish.
You're following your pattern, you finish your stitch or connect at directed and then it says "finish off." So what does that mean? It's really simple. To finish off, cut your working yarn, leaving a nice long tail (at least 4 inches) wrap working yarn around your hook and pull completely through your last loop. You just created the same slip knot that you started with.

Weaving in Tails
So you've finished up and now you're ready to hide those tails.
-Start by pulling each one and making sure they're tight and secure.
-Then take a smaller hook than you worked with and your job now is to make sure the tails aren't seen. Simply start at the knot of a tail, work your hook into your stitches and pull the end of the tail through.
-Do this so that at least 2 inches of your tail is hidden.
-Pull and stretch your project out so that the tails settle in more and are less likely to pop out.
- Snip off the extra tail, being careful not to cut your project and you're done!
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Saving Your Work for Later

Saving your work is very simple however, it can become a mess later with lost stitch counts and knots. There's one simple step that will insure you don't lose your place. After finishing a stitch, simply take your hook and pull until your loop becomes very large. This way if some accidental pulling happens when taking your project back out you won't lose stitches. Before stitching again simply insert your hook and pull on your working yarn, this will tighten your loop again and you're ready to go!

Also make sure you mark where you ended and put your hook away. I like to keep my hook in my skein so I remember which size I was using and it's easy to pick it back up.
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How to Hold Your Hook and Yarn

Holding Your Hook
There are two ways to hold your hook, both might feel a little funny at first but you'll get used to it and it will soon come naturally. Try holding your hook both ways and pick the one that feels better to you. Righty's or Lefty's can crochet with the right hand however, if you feel like you need to use your left hand just flip the directions. Your grip doesn't have to be exact, it just has to be comfortable for you.


Pencil Grip
Pinch hook between pointer and thumb and let middle finger help support. The hook will lay on top of your hand.

 



Knife Grip
Grip hook between thumb and pointer and let middle finger help support. The hook will lay in underside of your palm.


 

 

You will hold your hook in your right hand and the working yarn and project in your left. Your next step is how to hold your yarn. This is important because you want to eventually have even tension through your piece. If it's not even your stitches will come out all different sizes. This just takes practice so don't get too frustrated.

 

Holding Your Yarn

There is a proper way to hold your working yarn, I hold mine differently and you may change how you hold it too depending on what feels good while you're working, but I'm going to show you the proper way and then you can decide from there what does and doesn't work for you.

Note: It may be easier to learn this after you have learned a slip knot.

 

 

Step 1: With your yarn on your left and a slip knot on the hook in your right hand, hold your left hand out flat facing you.

 

 

 

Step 2: With the hand holding your hook, wrap the yarn across your pinkie moving left to right and then lay it across your palm. 

 

 

Step 3:  Continuing in a left to right movement, wrap the yarn around your index finger.

 

 

Step 4: Pinch the yarn at your slip knot with your thumb and middle finger.

 

 

Extend your left index finger upward to give you a clear view of your working yarn. This will also help you gauge your tension. Your goal is to have your stitches all look the same, if some are too tight and some too loose then adjust your grip on the yarn and keep practicing.

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Before You Begin

First: Know Your Yarn
When following a pattern, it will usually tell you the weight of yarn to use and about how many ounces it will take. These things can be found on the packaging of your skein. I gave an example in the pictures below.

-The first picture shows you where it shows the yards and right below it says NET WT 4.5 oz. It also tells you what the yarn is made from, in this case it's 100% acrylic.

-The second picture shows where you can find the weight of your yarn. All yarn is put into a weight category to try and make it easier to find the right kind for your project. This one is medium. It gives a suggested hook size, but use the one suggested by your pattern and according to your gauge. It's also machine washable, good to know!

It's a good idea to purchase all the yarn you need for a project all at one time, if you don't and go back for more make sure to look for the dye lot from your last skein or the colors may be a tiny bit off. On the wrapper you will find some information that will tell you the color # and the lot# make sure they match. In some cases you will have some they say "no dye lot" This means there will be no change and you don't have to worry about matching the numbers. 

Tip: To prevent knotting while you work, you want to pull the tail from the inside of the skein. If you use the outside one, you have to pull your packaging off, it's harder to use as you can't just let it come out and it can sometimes end in a big knotted mess once you reach the middle. Sometimes they're buried inside, but how do you know which end o pull it out of? The easiest way to tell is from the outside tail. If it's still tucked into the end, pull it out and tuck it under your packaging, but the inside tail will most likely come from the opposite end as the outside one. If it's already loose, you can usually tell which end it was tucked in by which side of the packaging it's sticking out of. This doesn't always work, but I've found it to be mostly correct. Still can't find it? Well they aren't always sitting there for us to see. Try to find the center most part of the skein and gently pull the sides apart, making sure not to pull any out, and see if you can find it. Some of them can be tough to find so look for these things when you buy your skeins, it will save you a lot of time later.

Second: Find the Right Hook
Crochet hook come in a couple different ways and made out of different materials. Some have ergonomic handles, and some don't. There is no right or wrong, it's all preference. So start out with one and if you don't like how it feels move to a different one. I like the aluminum with the softer hook, some like the sharper hook on the end, I find that they snag more but do what feels right for you.

If following a pattern they will tell you a general size, which you may have to change depending on your gauge. The size can be found on the middle flat part of every needle. Most will show the American range which is shown by a letter and number followed by the millimeter range. The picture below shows a size H-8 5.00mm hook. G and H are the most commonly used sizes, so if you're just starting out I would suggest one of those sizes for now.

Third: Collect Stitching Tools
In most patterns you will need some tools to assist you while making your projects. These tools will mostly consist of:
-Ruler-any kind will do

-Stitch Markers-these can be found at your local craft store and look like little plastic rings. The ones that disconnect are easier to use and can be reused. If you can't find these your can also use a different color of yarn to keep your place.

-Craft Needle-these can be found with the crochet and knitting needles. They're fat and plastic.

-Stitch Counter-or simple pen and paper will work too, it's up to you.
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