Very Hungry Caterpillar Cocoon and Hat

Hat
With G hook and red yarn, make slip knot.

Row 1: ch 3, 11 dc in third chain from hook, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next, repeat from * around, join (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in each of next 2 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 sp, reapeat from * around, join (48 dc)
Row 5: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in each of next 3 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 3 sp, reapeat from * around, join (60 dc)
Rows 6-9: ch 2, dc in each next sp and in each sp around, join (60 dc)
Row 10: ch 2, dc in next 17 sp, dc next 2 stitches together, *dc in next 18 sp, dc next 2 stitches tog, repeat from * around, join (57 dc)
Rows 11-13: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (57 dc)
Rows 14-15: ch 1, sc in next sp and in each sp around, join (57 sc)

Caterpillar Face
Eyes
Outside circle-light yellow-Make 2
Row 1: ch 3, 11 dc in third ch from hook, join (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in samp sp, hdc in next sp, *2 hdc in next sp, 1 hdc in next, repeat from * around (36 hdc)
Finish Off

Inside circle-green-Make 2
Row 1: ch 3, 11 dc in third ch from hook, join (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in same sp, 2 hdc in each sp around, join (24 hdc)
Finish Off-sew green circle onto yellow circle then sew yellow circles onto hat

Nose-Gray
Row 1: ch 2, 8 sc in second ch from hook, join with first sc (8 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sp, 3 sc in next next sp, sc in next 3 sp, join (12 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in next sp, sc in next 5 sp, 2 sc in next sp, sc in last 4 sp, join (14 sc)
Finish Off-sew on hat

Antennas-Gray-Make 2
Ch 19
Row 1: 3 sc in second ch from hook, 2 sc in next st, sc in remaining 16 chains (working only on one side of chain)
Row 2: (working on other side of chain) ch 1, sc in next 16 st, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc in last st
Finish Off-leaving very long tail

Fold antenna in half and sew together down to bottom (there should be 21 stitches to sew together) slip knot at end and attach to hat.

Cocoon
With H hook, make slip knot with dark green and ch 3.

Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook, join (12 dc)
Row 2: dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next sp, repeat from * around, join (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next 2 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 sp, repeat from * around, join (48 dc)
Row 5: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (48 dc)
Row 6: ch 2, dc in same sp, dc in next 3 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 3 sp, repeat from * around, join (60 dc)
Row 7: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (60 dc)
Row 8: ch 2, dc in same sp, dc in next 4 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 4 sp, repeat from * around, join (72 dc)
Row 9: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (72 dc)
Row 10: ch 2, dc in same sp, dc in next 11 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 11 sp, repeat from * around, join (78 dc)
Rows 11-14: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (78 dc)

Change color to light green.
Rows 1-8: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (78 dc)

Change color to dark green.

Rows 1-8: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (78 dc)

Change color to light green.
Rows 1-8: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (78 dc)

Change color to dark green.
Rows 1-8: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (78 dc)
Row 9: ch 1, sc in same sp and in each sp around, join (78 sc)
Finish Off and Weave in Tails

Simple Newborn Hat

Newborn Hat
With G hook, make slip knot.

Row 1: ch 3, 11 dc in third chain from hook. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of ch 2 (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next, repeat from * around, join (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in each of next 2 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 sp, reapeat from * around, join (48 dc)
Row 5: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in each of next 3 sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 3 sp, reapeat from * around, join (60 dc)
Rows 6-9: ch 2, dc in each next sp and in each sp around, join (60 dc)
Row 10: ch 2, dc in next 17 sp, dc next 2 stitches together, *dc in next 18 sp, dc next 2 stitches tog, repeat from * around, join (57 dc)
Rows 11-13: ch 2, dc in next sp and in each sp around, join (57 dc)
Rows 14-15: ch 1, sc in next sp and in each sp around, join (57 sc)
Finish Off


Ears-Optional
Make Two
Row 1: ch 3, 11 dc in third ch from hook, join (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in same sp, 2 hdc in each sp around, join (24 hdc)
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in same sp, 1 hdc in next sp, * 2 hdc in next sp, 1 hdc in next, repeat from * around, join (36 hdc)
Do not finish off yet.

Fold circle in half, sc stitches together around edge until closed. (18 sc)
Finish Off-Leaving a long tail to sew onto hat.

Position the ears where you want them on the hat and sew into place.
Weave in Ends

Lesson 4: Slip Stitch and Half Double Crochet

Abbreviations:
sl st (slip stitch)
hdc (half double crochet)

A slip stitch is often used to join at the end of rounds. It can also be used to skip a certain number of spaces without leaving a stitch with height behind and not having to finish off and re-connect.

A half double crochet is exactly that. Half of a double (you will learn the double in the next lesson.)

So let's get started!
We will start with the half double crochet as it's easier to learn the slip stitch in an existing row of stitches.

With a slip knot on your hook, ch 11.
(Remember you will always be working through both loops unless otherwise indicated.)

YO, (yarn over) insert in third ch from hook.
YO and draw through st. (You should have 3 loops on your hook.)
YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (Now you should have one loop on your hook.)
Stitch is complete. The 2 stitches skipped in the beginning counts as your first hdc.

*YO, insert hook in next st.
YO and draw through st. (could also be seen later as pull up a loop) (3 loops on hook)
YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 loop on your hook)
Repeat this section to finish your row. At the end you should have 10 hdc (counting your ch)

To continue practice: ch 2, turn (remember this counts as your first stitch, so don't crochet in the stitch directly underneath the ch.)
hdc in each st across. (10 hdc)
Then repeat:
ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. Keep repeating this to get practice with this stitch.

Here are pictures to go along
 

Yarn Over

Insert hook in next stitch.



Yarn Over

Draw through stitch. 3 loops on hook.

Yarn Over

Draw through all 3 loops on hook.
You should have one loop on your hook.

This is one row of half double crochets.

Next row:

Chain 2, turn.

hdc in next stitch and in each across.
You want to be careful here, the ch 2 counts as 1 hdc.
Ignore the stitch directly under the chain and hdc in
the next stitch. My needle is pointing to the stitch
you go into next. You should have 10 hdc including
the chain at the end of every row.

Note: You may feel like you're missing a stitch at the end of each row. Sometimes the chain from your previous row shrinks up a little bit. Don't forget to crochet in the top of it as it is a stitch.



Slip Stitch
don't finish off your hdc practice, we will use that to practice the slip stitch (sl st.)
don't chain, turn your practice work.

Insert hook in first stitch.

Yarn Over

Pull through stitch and

loop on hook.



Slip Stitches
They leave little to no height and are often
used to join rounds or skip spaces.
You should have 10 slip stitches across.

Baby Cocoon with Buttons

 



For this cocoon I used a size H hook and medium weight (4) yarn.


Ch 3
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook (12)

Increase
Row 2. Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each dc around (24)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 5 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 5 dc*, repeat from * around, join (28)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 6 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 6 dc*, repeat from * around, join (32)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 7 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 7 dc*, repeat from * around, join (36)
Row 6: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 8 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 8 dc*, repeat from * around, join (40)
Row 7: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 9 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 9 dc*, repeat from * around, join (44)
Row 8: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 10 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 10 dc*, repeat from * around, join (48)
Row 9: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 11 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 11 dc*, repeat from * around, join (52)
Row 10: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 12 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 12 dc*, repeat from * around, join (56)
Row 11: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 13 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 13 dc*, repeat from * around, join (60)
Row 12: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 14 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 14 dc*, repeat from * around, join (64)
Row 13: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 15 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 15 dc*, repeat from * around, join (68)
Row 14: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 16 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 16 dc*, repeat from * around, join (72)

Even Rounds
Rows 15-30: Ch 2, dc in next dc and in each dc around, join.
-At this point cocoon should measure at about 14 inches from beginning.

Flap
*Continue to slip stitch in next 34 spaces. (35 slip stitches) Front post sc around next 12 dc, ch 2, turn
Row 1: dc in next 12 fp sc, through next 35 dc and sl st (both at same time) and remaining dcs, ch 2, turn (84 dc)
Rows 2-12: dc in next dc and in each dc around, ch 2, turn (84)
Row 13: dc in next dc and in each dc around, ch 1, turn
Row 14: sc in each dc around (84)
Finish Off

Finishing
-Sew on buttons, you can use yarn or thread depending on the size wholes in your buttons.
-Make a chain of 25 (or whatever length you need to make a loop for your button) and attach to the left of the flap.
Note: You can use different sized buttons and add more or less. You can also chose to make a loop for every button or just one. I made one and placed it in between my two buttons so it can be used for either one in case the top needs to be folded for a smaller baby.
Weave in Ends

Enjoy!
L-

Double Thick Pot Holders

Have you ever wondered how to stitch double the thickness without having to make two of something and sew them together? I'll show you how to do that here. This technique can be handy in many situations, but I think it's especially helpful with hot pads. I'll include some pictures along the way.

This pattern uses ch, sc, sl st and requires loop recognition.
Use sugar 'n Cream cotton yarn and size H hook.

Thick Rectangle Hot Pads-Make Two
With slip knot on hook, ch 26.
Row 1: Working in back loops only, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
Rows 2-54(or stop when desired length is reached): sc together back loop of stitch and front loop of previous round together, across, ch 1, turn. (25 sc)
-This may be tricky to understand, when using only back loops of first row you left front loops behind so use the back loop of your current row and reach down to grab the front loop you left from the previous row. Then you make your sc in those loops. (See pictures below.) This makes it double thick. It may look a little funny until you get a few rows in.
Row 55(finishing round): sc through both loops of st and front loop of row before, across. (This leaves a nice finished end.
Finish off and weave in ends.

My silver needle in this picture is going first through the back loop of my current row and then through the front loop left behind from my chain. You make your single crochet in these stitches.

This is a few rows in. I went first through the back loop of my current row then dropped down and went through the front loop of my previous row. You make your single crochet in these stitches.

Note: If you want to make finger pockets, just make the pot holder longer then fold over ends and sew the sides.
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Simple Coasters

For these patterns I used Sugar 'n Cream cotton and light weighted yarn with a size G hook.

 

 

Round Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 3.
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook, join with sl st to top of ch. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next sp* repeat from * around, join. ( 36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next two sp* repeat from * around, join. (48 dc)
Border: *ch3, sl st in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, sl st in first sl st.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Lemon Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 3.
Row 1: 11 dc in third ch from hook, join with sl st to top of ch. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch2, dc in same sp, ch 1, *skip next sp, 2 dc in next sp, ch 1* repeat from * around, join in top of ch 2. (24 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, dc in next sp, dc in ch 1 sp *2 dc in next sp, dc in next sp, dc in ch 1 sp* repeat from * around, join.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Square Coaster
With slip knot on hook, ch 19.
Row 1: dc in third ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 2, turn. (18 dc)
Row 2: dc in next sp, *ch 2, dc in next two sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (10 dc and 4 ch 2 spaces)
Row 3: dc in next sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (18 dc)
Rows 4-7: dc in next sp and in each sp across, ch 2, turn (18 dc)
Row 8: dc I next sp, *ch 2, dc in next two sp* repeat from * across, ch 2, turn. (10 dc and 4 ch 2 spaces)
Row 9: dc in next sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, *dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in ch 2 sp* repeat from * across. (18 dc)
Finish off and weave in ends.

Enjoy!
L-

Fast and Easy Basket with Lid

This beginner friendly pattern can be easily altered to make a smaller or bigger basket, with or without a lid.

If you are a beginner - visit the stitch-onary page to refresh on abbreviations. This is an easy pattern to follow using slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), and increases (just follow the instructions.) Ignore the alterations your first time making this.

Tools: Bulky/Chunky yarn and I-sized hook -You can use different yarn, just adjust the size of your hook and you might need to make more rows to get the size you want, I picked bulky because it's sturdy and stands up well.

-Work through both loops unless otherwise stated for a round.

Bottom
Row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc throughout pattern) 11 dc in third ch from hook, sl st to join in top of beginning chain. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next* repeat from *around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two spaces, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, join with sl st in back loop of beg ch. (48 dc)

Note: To make a smaller basket stop increasing at row 3, to make a larger basket, continue increase pattern by adding an additional dc in between doubles for each new round until you reach the desired size.

Side
Row 1: work in back loops for this round only-ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (48 dc)
Rows 2-6: (working in both loops from now on) ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (48 dc)
Row 7: ch 1, sc in same sp and in each sp around, join with sl st in top of first sc. (48 sc) finish off

Lid-starts same as bottom
Row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc throughout pattern) 11 dc in third ch from hook, sl st to join in top of beginning chain. (12 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (24 dc)
Row 3: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next sp, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next* repeat from *around, join with sl st in top of beg ch. (36 dc)
Row 4: ch 2, dc in same sp, 1 dc in next two spaces, *2 dc in next sp, 1 dc in next 2 spaces* repeat from * around, join with sl st in back loop of beg ch. (48 dc)
Row 5: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp, *sc in next sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp* repeat from * around, join with sl st in top of first sc (60 sc)
Row 6: work in back loops for this round only- ch 2, dc in each sp around, join with sl st in top of beginning ch. (60 dc)
Row 7: sl st in each sp around, join with sl st to first sl st. (60 sl sts) finish off

Note: If you made your basket a different size, start your lid by making it the same size as your bottom piece, then add one additional increase round of sc, continue directions starting at round 6.
-Weave in ends and trim. After working you may have to flatten the bottom of basket and top of lid on a surface to shape before using.

Alteration: For an even sturdier basket, make two bottoms, sl st together then continue pattern. Two top circles can be made for the lid also, then continue on row 6. This will help the basket and lid keep their shape better. If your lid isn't quite big enough, use a hdc instead of sc on row 5.

Happy Stitching!
L-

Lesson 3: Single Crochet and Identifying Loops

Abbreviations: sc (single crochet) front lp (front loop) back lp (back loop)
 
All abbreviations are also listed on the Stitch-onary page. These are important to take note of, if you learn them as we go it will make reading patterns much easier.
 

Front and Back Loops
We're going to start with identifying front and back loops. This is an important thing to know from here on out. When you make a stitch, on top of that stitch there is a front loop and a back loop. That's where you will work stitches in on your next round. In the pictures below, my silver needle is pointing to the loop mentioned.

Front Loops. These are the loops closest to you.

Back Loops. These are the loops furthest away from you.

Both loops. My needle here is going through both the front and back loops. Unless otherwise indicated in a pattern, you will do all of your work through both loops. This will make your piece nice and flat. If you see ridges as you go along, you aren't working through both loops. Different styles or stitches will require working through one loop or the other at times. For now, work through both.











Single Crochet
The first stitch you will learn is a single crochet. I've included pictures for each step, if you need additional help don't hesitate to ask. Remember these will always be worked through both loops unless otherwise indicated. Practice for as long as you need to feel comfortable before moving on to the next lesson.

With a slip knot on your hook, ch 11 (chain 11)

Start your single crochet in second chain from hook. The loop on your hook does not count.

This is the first chain.

This is the second.

 Insert in second chain from hook.

 Yarn Over

Pull through chain.
There should be two loops on your hook. 

 Yarn Over
Pull through both loops on hook.

You have made one single crochet and should have one loop on your hook.

Single crochet in next 9 chains, ch 1

You should have a total of 10 sc and a ch 1.

Turn

You are literally turning your work from front to back.

Single crochet in first stitch and in each stitch across, ch 1 turn (10 sc made)

Continue practicing your single crochets by following the last step repeatedly until you feel confident in your work.

You should always come up with 10 single crochets in each row and your work should be flat as you're working in both loops.

If it starts to curl up you're probably crocheting a little too tight. Relax, adjust your gauge on the yarn and keep going.

Lesson 2: Chain

Abbreviation: ch (chain) or chs (chains)

The chain is the beginning to almost every project and is used throughout all patterns. By making a beginning chain you are essentially making loops to work your rows on, much like casting on in knitting. This is also a good stitch to practice your gauge with.

Other abbreviations you will need to know: yo (yarn over) this means you wrap your working yarn around your hook, always from left to right bringing the yarn over the front of your hook or rather mover your hook to catch the yarn.

 Let’s get started!

With slip knot on your hook:
yo, draw through loop on hook, one chain is made.


Yarn Over

Draw through loop on hook

One chain is made

 
 

Repeat continuously for practice or for as many chains as needed in a project.

Tip: When you yarn over, turn your needle to catch the upper hook on the yarn you are pulling through-that’s what it’s there for.
L-